Visiting Paris with kids? Here’s my guide to doing Paris with a five-year-old, Eiffel Tower lines and all. From the Tuileries playgrounds and Christmas markets to kid-friendly Louvre tips, vegan eats for mom, and a magical hotel near the museum, this is how we made Paris work, and definitely sparkle, with a child in tow.
Twenty years ago, my husband and I took our very first trip together to Paris. We stayed in this tiny boutique hotel, walked around hand-in-hand like the most cliché version of ourselves, and I remember thinking, This is it. This is the most romantic city in the world.
Fast forward two decades. Different season of life. Same city. This time we arrived with a five-year-old, a stroller rental, and about 20,000 more steps a day on my watch.
On our first afternoon, we started wandering with no plan, just walking, taking in the streets, the light, the feeling of being back. And then, out of nowhere, we passed the exact same small boutique hotel where we’d stayed on that first trip.
We didn’t plan it. And we weren’t looking for it. We just… bumped into our past selves. That’s Paris to me: a little magical, a little weird, and always a tiny bit serendipitous. This time, though, the city belonged to our daughter. This was Rosie’s first time in Paris. In her mind, Paris was:
- The Eiffel Tower
- Uh, The Eiffel Tower
- And.. The Eiffel Tower
So this is Paris, but told through a child’s point of view, with a parent’s reality check woven in.
Before You Go: Paris With Kids Requires a Whole New Mindset
Let me say this clearly:
If you go to Paris with a five-year-old and try to recreate your pre-kid itinerary — long Louvre days, late-night lingering dinners, slow shopping on every chic street — you will be miserable.
Paris with kids is a different city. It’s:
- • Less “three-hour tasting menu” and more “pizza and bed by nine.”
- Less “I must see every wing of the Louvre” and more “we spent the entire time in the kids’ studio and she drew with crayons for an hour.”
- Less “romantic strolls at midnight” and more “we’ve been at this Christmas market Funhouse ride for the seventh time and I’m oddly okay with it.”
If you can let go of the fantasy of adult Paris and embrace kid Paris, the playgrounds, the bubbles, the rides, the random interactions with children from other countries, it’s actually incredibly beautiful.
Every November, we do our big Europe trip because:
- Christmas markets are open and magical
- Walking Weather! The weather is cool and crisp.. It’s never too hot (my personal travel dealbreaker because I love a long walk)
- Coats, scarves, and boots feel like part of the experience
We fly out of Los Angeles, land in the cool air of late fall, and it instantly feels like a real vacation from our normal life.
Quick Guide: Paris With Kids (Ages 4–8)
A fast, mom-approved cheat sheet for navigating Paris with a five-year-old.
Best Ages for Paris With Kids
- Ages 4–8 are the sweet spot — old enough to walk, enjoy museums, and love playgrounds, young enough to still be dazzled by everything.
- Under 3 = stroller-heavy, nap-sensitive.
- Over 8 = ready for longer museum days and more structured tours.
Where to Stay (Kid-Friendly & Central)
1st Arrondissement (Louvre / Tuileries area) is ideal for families:
- Walkable to gardens, playgrounds, markets, and the Louvre
- Easy access to cafés + transit
- Safe, lively, and activity-packed without feeling chaotic
Top Picks:
• Hôtel du Louvre (Hyatt Unbound Collection) — great rooms, central, beautiful lobby, steps from everything.
• Hôtel Regina — family rooms + Eiffel Tower view options if that’s important to you.
Top 6 Kid-Friendly Things To Do in Paris
1. Eiffel Tower (Book ahead!)
✔ Sparkles on the hour
✔ Amazing for kids
✔ Expect long lines — especially coming down
✔ Book timed entry in advance
2. Jardin des Tuileries
✔ Playground
✔ Trampolines
✔ Open lawns + statues
✔ Dog-watching
✔ Holiday market in winter
3. Louvre Kids’ Studio
✔ Drawing tables + activities
✔ Calm, creative space
✔ Great place to rest and reset
✔ Skip the Mona Lisa with little kids if you want — there’s so much else
4. Christmas Markets (Seasonal)
✔ Funhouse rides
✔ Treats, lights, games
✔ Kids will lose their minds in the best way
✔ Not relaxing, but very worth it
5. Opera District Stroll
✔ Beautiful architecture
✔ Quick snacks + cafés
✔ The best Zara Kids (truly)
6. Random Playground Moments
✔ Kids don’t need fancy itineraries
✔ They’ll remember the playground friend more than the art
Where to Eat With Kids (Vegan-Friendly)
Best bets:
- Pizza spots (ivonnes, Pizzeria Popolare, others around the 1st)
- Cojean (quick, light, some vegan items)
- Cafés near the Louvre with simple menus
- Percent-sign coffee shop near the Louvre for great coffee
Tip: Classic French cuisine = heavy on butter + cream, easier to lean Italian, Mediterranean, and modern cafés if you’re vegan or have picky eaters.
Stroller Tips
- Rent one locally, Cloud of Goods was easy and hotel-friendly.
- Paris is VERY walkable, but little legs get tired fast.
- Avoid navigating the airport with your own stroller if you can.
Museum Strategy (Louvre + Others)
- Book morning weekday slots when possible.
- Don’t force full museum days — go in with 1–2 goals max.
- Turn exhibits into a game (we did “find the cats in the paintings”).
- End in the kids’ studio — essential for decompression.
Weather & Clothing (Fall Travel Tips)
- Late fall = chef’s kiss
- Cool, crisp air
- Mostly jacket-and-scarf weather
- Occasional drizzle (romantic + manageable)
- Boots are worth it
- Layers, layers, layers
Transportation Tips
- • Walk as much as you can — it’s part of the joy.
- The Eurostar to/from London is fantastic but extremely quiet — avoid commuter-hour trains with small kids.
- Taxis can be sparse near major monuments at peak times, so be ready to walk.
Airport Notes (CDG)
- • Chaotic energy — embrace it.
- Family lines at security = lifesaver
- Arrive early, snacks packed
What Kids Will Actually Remember
- • Sparkles on the Eiffel Tower
- The playground friend
- The Funhouse at the Christmas market - the ten times you went through - laughing - the scary-fun slides
- Trampolines at the park
- Pretzels and cotton candy
- Running through bubbles
- The cat paintings at the Louvre
- That one café pastry
- The rain - holding the umbrella
- The feeling of being somewhere new and enormous
What You Will Remember
- The long walks - tired but full
- The serendipity
- The crisp air
- Shiny cobblestone
- The tiny hand holding yours
- The shift from romantic Paris to parent Paris, and how beautiful that evolution actually is
Where We Stayed: Hôtel du Louvre by Hyatt (and Why Central Paris Works With Kids)
Hotel: Hôtel du Louvre, by Hyatt — Unbound Collection
Location: 1st arrondissement, steps from the Louvre
Kid-friendly alternative nearby: Hôtel Regina
We stayed at Hôtel du Louvre, literally one street away from the Louvre entrance. You look out the window and see the museum right there — statues, stone, that courtyard geometry. You are in it.
Now, you might think: Staying right next to the Louvre sounds like staying in Times Square. Hard pass.But Paris is funny that way. Aside from the Eiffel Tower itself, the main “touristy” areas are also some of the most walkable and activity-packed places for families — and they still feel like real Paris.
It’s not like staying on Rodeo Drive in L.A. or in the middle of Rockefeller Center in New York. Yes, there are tourists. But there are also locals, kids, cafés, and that everyday city hum.
We loved the hotel. It had:
- • Pretty interiors
- A lovely view over a small square and the Louvre
- Easy walking access to almost everything we did
- Really good room service (we used it more than once)
There’s another kid-friendly option nearby, Hôtel Regina, which has:
- • Some rooms with Eiffel Tower views
- A big family room under the eaves (lower ceilings, lots of space)
But here’s my honest Eiffel Tower window-view take:
If you’re in the 1st arrondissement near the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower in your window is going to be tiny. Yes, it’s cool to see it sparkle on the hour at night, but the price bump for that sliver of view is substantial. For us, it wasn’t worth it. I’d rather walk to a good viewing spot and keep the budget for food, activities, and… let’s be honest… Zara.
Eiffel Tower With Kids: Lines, Magic, and Why We Walked All the Way Home
We set aside an afternoon to walk from our hotel all the way to the Eiffel Tower, go up, and walk home.
The Lines (Just Being Honest)
Be prepared:
- • You wait in line to get into the line.
- You wait again to get into the elevator.
- And the longest line of all? Coming down.
- We spent a long, long time in that downward elevator queue.
We went on a Friday evening during the holiday season, which is basically peak chaos, so some of that is on us. Definitely book your tickets in advance, and if you can, strategize your time slot.
The Magic (Why It’s Still Worth It)
Even with the lines, even with the chaos, being at the top when the Eiffel Tower sparkles is pure kid magic.
Our visibility was terrible that day — foggy, hazy, not those crisp Instagram views — and she did not care at all. She was spinning, skipping, glued to the giant spotlight beam at the top, and absolutely buzzing with excitement.
You could see the sparkles reflecting in her eyes more than the city, and that was enough.
The Neighborhood Around the Tower
I’m glad we didn’t stay in a hotel right under the Eiffel Tower. The base area felt:
- • Very crowded
- Very tourist-heavy
- A little chaotic — especially on a holiday-season Friday night
Once we finished our visit, we wanted out. Instead of hunting for a cab, we decided to walk the whole way back. I know... That's just my style though.
By the end of the night, my step counter read 22,000. We were exhausted and also weirdly proud. I love walking cities like Paris, London, and New York as much as I can.. the walking is part of the experience.
Tuileries Garden: Where Paris With Kids Actually Comes Alive / Parents Safe Zone
Location: Jardin des Tuileries (between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde)
We spent a lot of time in the Tuileries Garden, and honestly, it’s where Paris really clicked for my daughter.
Think of it like a more compact mix of:
- Central Park
- Bryant Park
- Hyde Park
It’s one big, beautiful green space with:
- • Wide gravel paths
- Statues
- A Ferris wheel
- Locals walking dogs
- Kids following bubbles and running around
One Sunday morning, we saw what looked like an unofficial dog meetup, just a whole area dotted with dogs and their humans, playing on the grass. It was such a sweet little slice of everyday Paris.
The Playground & Holiday Market
At the base of the Ferris wheel, there’s:
- • A small playground that my daughter adored
- A sprawling Christmas market with stalls, rides, and games
At that playground, she met another little girl - from Cambodia, we later learned, and they played together for over an hour. No shared language, no adult micromanaging, just:
- • Running
- • Giggling
- • Making up games
- • Hugging goodbye at the end
It was one of my favorite moments of the entire trip. That’s the stuff you remember.
There’s also a trampoline area with individual trampolines you can pay to jump on. Of course we did that. She bounced, I took a thousand photos, everyone was happy.
A Quick Shopping Detour: Opera District + The Best Zara
From the Tuileries, we walked up towards the Opéra area, gorgeous big buildings, buzzing streets, lots of energy. We ended up at Zara in that circle, and I’m just going to say it: It was the best Zara I’ve ever been to.
We picked up some things for her from Zara Kids, and I left thinking: Are European Zaras just better? (I think yes.)
On the way back, we stopped at Cojean (spelled COJEAN) — a quick café with: Coffee, Fresh options, Some vegan-friendly items.
They had an apple crumble–ish dessert that was so, so good. It became a little go-to stop. Back near the Louvre, we also found our favorite coffee spot of the trip, a place with a percent sign logo. Great coffee and so close to the hotel, which is all you really want at 9 AM with a child.
Ivonne's vegan pizza
Where We Ate: Pizza, Cafés, and Being Vegan in Paris With a Kid
When you’re in Paris with a five-year-old, pizza becomes a hero.
We went to Von’s (pizza + kids menu + casual energy), and it was great — simple, cozy, good.
Other pizza / Italian spots on our radar:
- • Pizzeria Popolare
- • A few other buzzy places we couldn’t get into or didn’t have time for
- Italian food felt like the safest bet because:
- • It’s usually kid-friendly
- • It’s often easy to tweak for vegan needs
- • It’s comforting after long days walking in the cold
Traditional French food leans heavy into butter, cream, and meat — so being vegan in Paris means you’re often looking for Italian, Mediterranean, or modern cafés instead. We made it work.
A Rainy Morning Plan: The Children’s Museum (Honest Review)
One rainy morning, we wandered into a small children’s museum near our hotel. I think they rotate their featured artist or exhibit.
Our theme was:
- • Deep sea
- • Black light
- • Underwater plankton, jellyfish, creatures
It was fine, not awful, not amazing. Mostly a series of rooms to stroll through and look at. Not a ton to do, but it got us out of the rain and gave us a quiet hour. For a filler activity, it worked. Just don’t go in expecting a huge, hands-on science museum experience.
The Louvre With Kids: We Skipped the Mona Lisa And Didn’t Regret It
Let’s talk Louvre with a five-year-old. We went the day after a family photo shoot I had booked (highly recommend doing this, by the way — it’s the only way we get actual proof that all three of us were on the trip).
Inside the Louvre
I’m going to say the thing: We did not see the Mona Lisa. You might laugh, but honestly… what’s the point for a five-year-old who doesn’t know the history yet? She’s not going to care about checking it off a list. What she did love was everything else.
We turned the Louvre into a game:
- • We walked the halls looking for cats in paintings
- • We quickly realized there were way more dogs than cats
- • We started joking about how dogs are the hunters and workers, so they get all the portrait cameos
- • We searched and searched for cats and celebrated when we found them
It became this funny little scavenger hunt that made the overwhelming halls feel manageable. The day we went, it was very crowded — afternoon on a Saturday, which is basically the worst possible time. If you’re planning a visit:
- • Book timed entry in advance
- • Aim for a weekday morning if you can
- • Expect lines — people were queuing over an hour early for their time slots
The Studio: Absolute Must With Kids
The best part of the Louvre with our daughter was the kids’ studio section. Inside, kids can: Draw, Create
- • Sit at tables with paper and supplies
- • Enjoy themed activities in a calmer, more contained space
A lot of adults were in there too, just quietly charging phones and resting. It was like a little sanctuary within the giant maze. Rosalie even met a little girl and they played for a good hour - drawing together and making paper airplanes.
I would call the studio non-negotiable if you’re doing the Louvre with kids.
Other Paris Landmarks: What We Did and Didn’t Do
There’s always more to see in Paris:
- • Notre-Dame
- • Arc de Triomphe
- • Various neighborhoods and bridges
On this trip, we didn’t try to hit everything. With a limited number of days and a five-year-old in tow, we chose depth over breadth. We walked a ton, soaked in the city, and let go of the pressure to check every box.
Christmas Markets, Rainy Walks, and the Vibe of November in Paris
The Christmas market at the Tuileries was a huge highlight. My daughter went on the Funhouse attraction something like seven times. There were rides, games, cotton candy, food stalls, cheesy in the best way. If your child is under ten-ish, they will be in heaven. Actually the teens there seemed to be enjoying it all too!
We had one good rainy day, and honestly? I loved it. Walking through Paris with:
- • A light drizzle
- • Umbrellas out
- • Cozy cafés as a destination
- is its own kind of romantic, even with a kid.
- Don’t be afraid of a little rain. I’d take that over blazing heat any day.
Leaving Paris: Airports, Family Lines, and the 11-Hour Flight Home
Charles de Gaulle Airport is… a lot. But they do have family lines at security, which I deeply appreciated on our way home. My husband had to stay behind for a work conference, so I did the 11-hour flight home alone with our five-year-old, after a week of 10,000–20,000 steps a day. It felt like a mini marathon. But we did it. And I don’t regret a single second.
Why We Keep Choosing Exhausting, Big Trips Over “Easy” Vacations
Sometimes I think: We could just be the family that goes to Hawaii every year, stays at one resort, and rotates between the pool and the beach. And that sounds lovely. Truly. But that’s not who we are. We pick the big trips: The ones that are exhausting. The ones that require strollers and tickets and strategy. The ones that are chaotic and expensive and logistically intense
Because they’re also: Character-building. Perspective-shifting. Memory-dense. They become these bright, foundational blocks in not just my life, but now in my daughter’s life too.
Paris with a five-year-old wasn’t peaceful. It wasn’t relaxing. And it wasn’t the Paris of my twenties. It was better: louder, sillier, messier, sweeter. Basically, it was Paris re-written through her eyes.
And we’ll be back.
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